Bikepacking with children – From Allgäu to Lake Garda

Across the Alps by bike as a family in 10 day stages

There is something magical about crossing the Alps, crossing them on foot or by bike under your own steam. I (Marius) have already experienced this twice, both times on a mountain bike with friends on adventurous trails through the mountains. The desire to repeat such an experience is great, especially since the last crossing was some time ago. As I was also meeting up with friends at Lake Garda, I came up with the idea of ​​traveling there by bike and so we quickly turned it into a family crossing of the Alps and are sharing our experiences and the necessary preparations with you. 

First of all, we are Franzi (34), Marius (34), Leo (5) and Casper (3), we love being outside and being active in nature. Leo loves cycling and after a few longer bike rides in our local Allgäu region, we agreed that he could manage the planned route on his own and with our motivation. Casper is my passenger. Everyone has to decide for themselves whether their own child can manage it, but we are sure that it is doable for everyone if you act considerately, maybe even use public transport to shorten routes, save energy and nerves or simply add variety. 

After a little research, the route was set via the "Via Claudia Augusta", the easiest way to get over the Alps, a tried and tested route for over 2,000 years, as the ancient Romans already used this trade route from Venice to Augsburg. In the meantime, the different regions that you cross have expanded the former Roman network of paths into a long-distance hiking and cycling network and provided the tourist infrastructure. We cycled the section from Füssen to Trento and then individually took the route to the southern Lake Garda (Sirmione). In total, that was 338 km and 2,384 meters in altitude, as we left the two main passes, the Fernpass and Reschenpass, behind by bus and from Trento southwards by train. 

There are basically enough options for accommodation and refreshments along the route, but since we were travelling in August and the accommodation is full and the prices are obviously much higher because of the summer holidays, we decided to travel with a tent and sleep at campsites. This obviously means a lot more weight, but also the security of always having a place to sleep, because in an emergency you can put up your tent on the lawn. For us, there was hardly a worse scenario than having to go from accommodation to accommodation after an already long and exhausting day of driving. 

As for our luggage: we had a tent, three sleeping mats, two sleeping bags, a gas cooker and our enamel dishes with us, each with their own drinking bottle and cutlery. Each of us had a separate dry bag for clothing and a general one for rainwear. Of course, tools and spare tubes for all bike sizes were a must. We rode our mountain bikes, Leo's bike has 20-inch wheels (like the Thule trailer) and 8 gears (which are essential for mountain rides), Casper spent most of his time on the Shotgun 2.0 or in the trailer when he got tired. We stowed everything in the lovely Fjällräven panniers on Franzi's bike, Leo and Casper each had a small handbar bag and a snack bag with toys and I was also allowed to pull the Thule Cross 2 bike trailer. The bikes were quite heavy when packed up like this and it was probably just as strenuous for us as it was for Leo without luggage and that was important to us because it meant we could estimate when we needed to take a break or when it was too much. Of course, you can also travel with e-bikes, but then the gap between parents and children is even bigger.

Before we go into the detailed description of the route, one thing first: No matter what adventure you undertake with the kids, whether long or short, it is worth it for everyone. You discover new perspectives, give the youngsters self-confidence and develop a special connection to plants, animals, geology and the weather. It was a very special experience that we mastered together, not because the route was particularly long or difficult, but because we managed it as a family, as a team.

Day 1:
Füssen - Heiterwanger See / 4 hours (pure saddle time), 23 km, 300 hm

We decided to do the Kaufbeuren-Füssen leg by train, as we already know our immediate surroundings well by bike. Due to the weather, we didn't get on the train until 12 noon, but we were in the saddle in Füssen at 1 p.m., dry. Füssen is the first highlight along the route (we know it really well, of course), the beautiful old town with its beautiful old town houses along the turquoise Lech and the castle invite you to stroll. We come across the Via Claudia Augusta at the Lech, where it meanders along to the Lech Falls, which are very busy. Barely a few hundred meters further on, we leave Germany and cross the border to Austria. We head upstream on an asphalted cycle path along the Lech. We love this area and the microclimate of the Lech, which always reminds us strongly of Canada in terms of vegetation. Many small pine trees grow here in one of the last wild river landscapes in Europe. Behind Reutte we leave the beautiful river and begin the climb and for us the first short push section towards Ehrenberg, an old castle ruin with a suspension bridge and various tourist attractions. What was new for us, behind the castle is a really great adventure playground with a beer garden, which can also be used as a stopover by car in the future. This first real climb made us clearly aware of the weight of our luggage. Phew! We hook Leo to the tow rope from Kids Ride Shotgun for the first time and motivate ourselves with a ration of M&Ms. The good thing is that every mountain has an end and after that it is mostly downhill. Today we drive to Lake Heiterwanger, a picturesque mountain lake that is connected to Lake Plansee by a canal. We stop for the first night at the Fischer am See campsite and are amazed at the hefty prices for the pitch on the camping field. For two adults, two children and a tent we paid a whopping 67 euros - somehow we had planned it differently. Nevertheless, the place is beautiful, the food in the restaurant is good and the playground right by the lake is a welcome change for the kids. We learned an important rule at the Fjällräven Classics Germany in Allgäu at the beginning of the year: always set up camp first, because at some point you are just exhausted and want to fall into bed straight away. So we quickly set up our Abisko Lite for 3 people, pumped up the sleeping mats and covered them with a large bed sheet (much more comfortable than lying directly on the mats), rolled out the sleeping bags, stuffed the pillowcases with down jackets and the camp is ready. The kids think it's really exciting to camp, although we still have to come to terms with the place. In the evening it starts to rain lightly, but by then we are already lying dreaming and cozy in our beds.

Day 2:
Heiterwanger See - Imst / 4 hours (pure saddle time), 35 km, 410 hm

The first night in the tent was better than expected, but the sun is shining and we unpack our gas cooker to prepare our first breakfast. We have porridge in a pack and instant coffee, which fills you up quickly and can be prepared easily with warm water in an enamel mug. Strengthened, we set off with anticipation for the second stage, which takes us along the cycle path through the beautiful valley towards the Fernpass. We let ourselves drift, enjoy the view and the good weather, and stop every now and then for something exciting along the way to pick berries or rescue snails from the cycle path. The section between Ehrwald and the Fernpass is particularly beautiful, as you cross an extensive floodplain landscape here. Towards the Fernpass we take the small climb to Biberwier, from where we want to cross the Fernpass by bus. After a bit of back and forth and confusion about when the bus would actually leave and whether it would take us with all our luggage (especially the bike trailer), we were soon completely packed into the bus to Nassereith and both children fell asleep straight away. The short trip cost us 18 euros and took a lot of stress out of the dreaded mountain stage. From Nassereith we then drove a little further to Imst and enjoyed the route, which mainly went through the forest. On the way we discovered an incredibly beautiful forest playground with a picnic table and shortly before we reached Imst a really beautiful mountain stream in which, according to the locals, some beavers live. Unfortunately we only saw ducks, but it was still a nice break before the last few kilometers to the campsite. Shortly before arriving at Aktiv Camping Imst it started to rain lightly - luckily only now. The campsite is nothing special, but it has a great play area (indoor) for kids and at 38 euros per night it is also much cheaper than yesterday's. While I set up the camp, the two children are happy about new toys and Lego and since it is so cozy and harmonious, we quickly order pizza for dinner. 

Day 3:
Imst - Prutz / 4 hours, 36 km, 460 m

It rained again during the night and unfortunately it was still drizzling a little when we got up. We waited a little defensively and had breakfast in the lounge with porridge and instant coffee. In the meantime the rain lets up and after fixing a flat tire on my bike we can start the third day dry. Today we are accompanied by Ritsch and his son Niko (11), who are also on the Via Claudia to Italy and who we met at the campsite. Finding the way is really not difficult, the signage is perfect and soon we are riding along the Inn towards Landeck. The route leads along asphalted cycle paths and through small villages. It goes well, the path is super flat and we take our first break in Zams at a sports facility with a trampoline for the kids. Visibly satisfied and with a good appetite we devour the snack that we just bought in a supermarket. We continue to Landeck and from there uphill in undulating hills to Prutz. The Inn becomes increasingly narrow and becomes a real mountain stream, which wildly makes its way down into the valley. Our strength is already waning as we climb the last few meters and we have to take a break because Leo's gears are no longer working. Marius and Ritsch have to take matters into their own hands now because we are exactly in the middle between two towns, at least 1.5 hours in each direction and until the next cyclist, if they are even still open by then. But they manage it, the gears work again and we arrive at today's destination together, where it starts to rain again. This campsite also offers many opportunities to stay indoors and dry our things, but costs us over 50 euros, even though we have to set up camp on the tent field outside the campsite. After frozen food from the campsite restaurant and a long shower, it's off to bed. 

Day 4:
Prutz - Nauders / 1.5 hours, 12 km, 100 m

It rained all night and the mood is a little bad in the morning because Franzi slept really badly. Today we are all feeling the effects of the last three days in the saddle and are all a little exhausted, so progress is slow. But it is dry and the goal is within reach: the Reschen Pass. We won't be tackling this pass ourselves either, because the Reschen Pass is a really steep and long stage, and you also drive on the road the whole way. Instead of driving all the way to Pfunds, we get on the bus two stops early so that we can be sure of getting space for our bikes and the trailer. Since the temperature is supposed to drop to a frosty 3 degrees tonight and we would really like to get a really good night's sleep, we decide to stay in Nauders. The spacious and beautifully located apartment is in the Bergkastellblick house and has two bedrooms and a fully equipped kitchen. The children think it's great, Casper loves hotels anyway and so they explore and inspect everything euphorically. We wash all our things here (and the kids' too) and can lay out all our equipment to dry, really good. We quickly eat something and then fall into bed satisfied. 

Day 5:
Nauders - Prad / 4 hours, 41 km, 320 m altitude

Well rested, well slept and dried out and with an outstanding breakfast of homemade apricot jam, we head from Nauders about 8 km up to the Reschen Pass. And suddenly they are there, the endorphins! Even though we have traveled a few kilometers by bus, we are full of happiness standing under the "Reschen Pass" sign and a few meters further on we can see the blue sign of the border with Italy. The feeling of having made it this far is overwhelming and for our travel companion Niko it is the very first time in Italy. After the pass there are a few more meters of altitude to climb until you get a view of Lake Reschen and then it is really only downhill. The obligatory photo of the church tower in the lake is taken and the short rain shower is waited for before heading downhill through the Vinschgau. The cycle path winds along several lakes and runs picturesquely on the opposite side of the main road. The route is simply fantastic and the weather suddenly becomes very Italian too. We pass through many small villages and drive through endless apple fields. Since it's downhill the whole time and Leo's fingers regularly fall asleep from braking, we have to stop often. We take a lunch break at a beautifully located forest playground and the kids keep running around - where do they get all this energy from? 

At the end of the longest stage so far, we arrive in Prad am Stilfser Joch and want to drink our first Italian café doppio - probably the most expensive ever at 5.20 euros. The campsite is no bargain either, we pay 70 euros for the tent area. We still have to get used to the prices in high season. Franzi gets pizza from the nearby pizzeria and the children have already discovered the playground at the campsite again. Full, happy and tired, we fall into bed and prepare ourselves for a cold night, because it is supposed to drop to 5 degrees again. 

Day 6:
Prad - Naturns / 3.5 hours, 39 km, 124 m

Again, as expected, the night was not really cold, or at least we did not get cold,  because four small heating plants in the tent contributed to this. We get up and enjoy a cappuccino and cornetto with the warm sun on our faces. Dismantling the camp and packing up our things always takes ages and we rarely manage to get on the bike before 11am. We pack everything back into the Fjällräven saddlebags and our Thule Cross 2 bike trailer and continue on through the endless apple fields of the Vinschgau. Most of the route is downhill and we make good progress and so we have made it to Naturns by midday and meet Ritsch and Niko there again, who wanted to use the downhill ride the day before to get a head start. We spontaneously decide to stay with them at the forest campsite, which is both price-wise (around 40 euros) and visually really nice. The campsite was recommended to us several times and has a really nice atmosphere and, next to the swimming pool, a really great adventure playground with a panoramic view. 

Day 7:
Naturns - Terlan / 3 hours, 31 km, 40 m elevation

We slept well, you actually get used to the limited space in the tent over time, and it was also the first night that it was neither cold nor wet, a real summer camping feeling. We've now finished eating our porridge supplies, so we have to go shopping for breakfast in the evening. Yoghurt and fruit can survive a night without refrigeration and are a great basis for a strenuous day. Today we're heading to our long-awaited destination, Merano. We love this city in South Tyrol, but we've never been here by bike before. First, the stage takes us almost 20 km further through apple orchards and finally vineyards and along the Etsch. Before some really steep and breathtaking switchbacks, we stop again and enjoy the view and the peace and quiet away from city life. 

Driving along Merano's promenade and arriving here under our own steam feels great, and as a reward we all get delicious gelato. We linger in the town and just watch the hustle and bustle, yes, we simply enjoy it. It feels like we've arrived, even though we still have many kilometers to go to our actual destination. We continue on, out of the town again and to the next campsite. The next 20 km are not very exciting, but mostly flat, were it not for the headwind that makes it difficult for us to move forward. With a lot of motivation and towing, we make it to the campsite in Terlan, with the most idyllic camping area of ​​all the sites. In general, the site is cute and small and seems very private. The price was also completely reasonable at 40 euros. There is a pond with fish and turtles, Casper is in his element here, watching and showing everyone what is swimming there. We cook together with our travel companions for the last time, because from here they will take the train back to Nuremberg. 

Day 8:
Terlano - Kurtatsch / 4 hours, 44 km, 150 m altitude

After a mild night, we saddle up our bikes and continue along the Etsch towards Bolzano. We follow the cycle path further to Trento and we are all looking tired. Leo is longing for some playtime. And we also have a hard time finding our motivation. It is well known that this section is not one of the most picturesque, but there are currently no trains running between Bolzano and Trento and so we have to cycle the stage and today it should be a tough 45 km. The path leads between the now very wide Etsch and the motorway and we feel the heat of the Italian summer. Spurred on by a child of the same age, Leo suddenly finds motivation again and almost rides away from us. So lucky! We wind our way between more and more vineyards on the wine route near Kaltern to our stage destination. The detour to the wine route is highly recommended to everyone and breaks up the somewhat monotonous via Claudia between Bolzano and Trento. On the recommendation of a friend, we drive to Kurtatsch, check in at the beautiful Camping Obstgarten and go to the Burschenschank in the middle of the vineyards for dinner. Wow, this is exactly what we were looking for! We enjoy the traditional, delicious South Tyrolean food in rustic surroundings. The temperature at night is now anything but cool, so we can leave the tent up. 

Day 9:
Kurtatsch - Trento - by train to Cavaion / 5 hours, 47 km, 230 hm

Today we all feel very motivated and are looking forward to the next few kilometers, because the destination is slowly in sight. We decided not to take the Via Claudia, but to continue along the wine route between vineyards, a little cross-country, but the adventure brings variety and fun, because the second half continues between the Etsch and the motorway and the route lacks some highlights. The temperature is rising steadily, making the afternoon a strenuous excursion. We are also a little pressed for time today, because we have to catch the last train in Trento. Our destination is not in the north of Lake Garda, but in the south (here we have an apartment belonging to the family) and so our route is another 75 km longer and we want to take the train. After a short lunch break we continue and manage to catch the train, all visibly tired from the heat and the journey. But we are happy on the train and all relaxed. When we arrive in Domigliana we look for accommodation without booking, because unfortunately there are no campsites here. After a long search, we find what we are looking for in a pizzeria with rooms in the dark and are allowed to stay overnight in a wonderfully renovated Art Nouveau villa. They prepare a room especially for us and we are more than grateful to have found accommodation. The prices are also back to normal here, as we pay 100 euros for a room including breakfast. We are in the middle of the beautiful Vapolicella wine-growing region, enjoying a glass of wine, pizza, celebrating Leo for the longest stage he has ever driven and falling into bed exhausted and happy. Tomorrow we are going to Lake Garda and our destination. 

Day 10:
Cavaion - Sirmione / 3.5 hours, 30 km, 250 m altitude

Well rested and excited, we start the last day of our crossing of the Alps towards Lake Garda. The typical Italian breakfast is complemented by an extra carafe of peach juice, which the attentive waiter serves to the children, as they both wanted to drink peach juice the night before. These Italians, simply beautiful! Well fortified, we continue straight away. First Leo's tire has to be changed, because now he has a flat tire to boot. So far the trip has been without any major incidents, 3 flat tires and a short stop at the bike shop. We continue on, unfortunately there are no cycle paths here and we have to ride the 10 km to the lake on roads and dirt tracks. After just under an hour we reach Lake Garda near Lazise and are jumping for joy. We made it here from Füssen in 10 days, mostly under our own steam! Leo cycled like a world champion and Casper is the happiest and most relaxed passenger. We enjoy the first ice cream at the lake and go straight to the completely overcrowded beach of Lazise, ​​where tourists pile up with towels - absolutely not for us but the kids enjoy the sand and the lake. At 4 p.m. we set off to tackle the last few kilometers to Sirmione. The route mostly runs along the very busy lake promenade and the last 20 km are quite a stretch. We finally reach our destination and our favorite pizzeria after a total of 338 km and 2,384 meters of altitude. We are proud, happy, relieved and exhausted. 

Conclusion: 

We did it and spent days on the bike with our kids. It was an adventure for us as a family and allowed us to get to know the beautiful area more closely, which we otherwise often only see from the car window. We were out in nature, exposed to the weather and had to leave our comfort zone often and it was wonderfully wild and beautiful. In terms of fitness, I would say that any reasonably sporty adult and child who is enthusiastic about exercise can do it. Mentally, you have to distance yourself from defined goals and see the path as the goal; sometimes progress is faster and sometimes slower. Sometimes you have to motivate more and sometimes less and ultimately everyone should just have a good time together. It doesn't have to go over the Alps straight away, there are many beautiful tours of different lengths to test and get used to. Above all, we enjoyed traveling with a tent and being right in nature. 

So what are you waiting for? Just drive away.

Our equipment / packing list:

camping

- 1x tent Fjällräven Abisko Light 3 people
- 3x air-filled sleeping mats ( Frilufts , Exeed)
- 2x summer sleeping bags ( Fjällräven , Salewa)
- 1x fitted sheet for the sleeping mats
- 2x pillowcase (filling down jackets)

Bicycle equipment of our MTBs

- 2x Fjällräven Specialized panniers + Lid Pack (here we have stored the kitchen, food and e.g. shoes)
- 1x Fjällräven Specialized frame bag for tools
- 1x saddle bag Fjällräven Specialized + dry bag for the tent
- 1x Handle Bar Rack + Bag Fjällräven Specialized (this was on Franzi's bike and contained valuables and things that needed to be accessed quickly; the bag is easy to remove and was taken everywhere)
- 2x Handlebar Pocket Fjällräven Specialized (for children's things, Leo had his on his bike)
- 2x Snackbag Fjällräven Specialized (for the kids' things, Leo had his on his bike)

- Bicycle lock
- Bicycle lighting
- Tools, spare hoses (in every inch size), pump
- Kids ride Shotgun 2.0 seat + tow rope

transport

- Thule Cross 2 bike trailer
- Many labelled dry bags (one for each)

Cook

- Gas cooker
- Our Roadtyping enamel mugs and tableware
- Tea, coffee, porridge
- Our Roadtyping Iso and children's bottles  
- Cutlery

clothing

- Cycling vest
- Cycling shorts / underpants
- 2x Merino shirt
- Long shirt/jacket/shirt
- Our Roadtyping Socks
- Gloves with padding (gel)
- Helmet
- Sports shoes
- Rainwear
- Warm fleece or down jacket (light weight and perfect as pillow filling)

In this case, we were wearing the new collection from Fjällräven + Specialized and can highly recommend it. The collection has a really casual cut and the usual Fjällräven quality as well as the understated colors, pimped with the cycling expertise of Specialized
>>> To the collection

Miscellaneous

- Headlamp
- Sunscreen
- First aid kit
- Towel + shower things
- Bath slippers
- Our Roadtyping camping blanket (top for sitting, bottom as tent ground)

Kids

- Toys
- Card game
- Pixi books
- Stage gifts/medals (horn, badges, etc.)
- Cuddly toys