Traveling by camper Newfoundland
"The Rock," as the locals call Newfoundland, had long been a dream destination for both of us. The rugged north has always fascinated us, and since our trip to Norway together, we've become even more captivated by its incredibly beautiful and vast natural landscape. On our campervan trip through Newfoundland, we were able to experience the island's raw beauty and are now sharing our experiences with you.
Characters sculpted by sun and wind, beautiful, colorful wooden houses, and the feeling of being at the end of the world—we found these things appealing and fascinating. This is precisely what Newfoundland represents: an island shaped by the Atlantic Ocean and relentlessly battered by the northern weather. Located in northeastern Canada, Newfoundland is only accessible by ferry from Nova Scotia or Labrador. It is part of the province of Newfoundland and Labrador.
Big and wide: Arriving in Newfoundland by campervan
The ferry crossing from North Sydney in Nova Scotia to Port aux Basques takes six to seven hours and can be either calm or stormy, depending on the mood of the Atlantic. The other vehicles on board, all trucks or pickups towing quads or ATVs, promised pure adventure. We understood why all these vehicles were needed, especially at the campsites. It seemed like the entire island gets around primarily on quads or ATVs, and in winter, on snowmobiles. Given the poor road surfaces and lack of paved roads in the vast hinterland, it was definitely the better option. Warning signs for potholes were more of a constant reminder than an actual warning, because potholes don't just appear after the warnings; they're everywhere.
Our journey in the van took us from the port to the beautiful beach of Grand Bay West , right next to Port aux Basques, for our first night. We couldn't have imagined a better welcome from "The Rock." We arrived in sunshine, the sandy beach was empty, and the sun's rays were warm.
Traveling with our camper on the Trans Canada Highway
After the first few kilometers on the TCH (Trans Canada Highway), we got what we had hoped for. Everything was bigger and more expansive than we were used to at home. Nevertheless, Newfoundland is only a third the size of Germany and tiny compared to the rest of North America (more detailed information from Wikipedia ). The road stretched straight as an arrow for dozens of kilometers through seemingly endless forests. From the road, we saw countless lakes that were completely undeveloped. Impressive hills rose up – yes, hills – because nothing here is higher than 600 meters, while on the other side, the view of the ocean repeatedly opened up. On our first drive through Newfoundland, we cruised along in our campervan at a relaxed 90 km/h, trying to avoid the biggest bumps and enjoying the unfamiliar landscape. The world outside the window. The children were fascinated by all the trucks and pickups, which provided the perfect entertainment for the journey.
Unlike usual: Camping in Newfoundland
Just before our second stop at the campground in Barachois Pond Provincial Park, there he was: our first moose. Completely unperturbed, he was grazing right next to the TCH and seemed almost curious when we pulled up. Naturally, we and the children were incredibly excited. We had longed for this moment, as we hadn't seen a single moose in all our weeks in Scandinavia, and now there he was, a young animal – which, on closer inspection, resembled a cross between a hare, kangaroo, horse, and deer – calmly allowing us to examine and photograph him. Once at the campground , our sense of adventure had taken hold: we found, inspected, and analyzed more moose tracks, and we had to build a campfire. It helps keep the annoying black flies away, creates a lovely atmosphere, provides warmth, and of course, gives us embers for roasting potatoes and marshmallows. Whether that was truly relaxing with two energetic children remains to be seen…
The next morning, we explored the very large campground by bicycle and discovered that Canadian camping works quite differently from our camping habits in Europe. While we interpret camping as reducing things to the essentials, being in nature with minimal equipment and without unnecessary items, and enjoying the peace and quiet far from the hustle and bustle, here it's more like a second home by the lake, fully equipped with its own bouncy castle and every imaginable gadget. It wasn't exactly quiet either, as the gasoline-powered compressors roared in front of the huge trailers, providing electricity for these mobile three-room apartments. On our few visits to campgrounds, we definitely preferred the tent area – without much comfort, but very quiet.
At midday, we left the still very pretty town in our camper and turned off the TCH onto Route 480 , the only road in Newfoundland that runs through the center of the island (the main road goes around the edge). We were quickly confronted with the reality of our chosen side road: it was... A gravel road, and for a whopping 80 kilometers. Not a problem, really, if it weren't for the potholes. So the journey took us a total of 7.5 hours – not surprising given our average speed of just 18 km/h. Nevertheless, we were rewarded for the arduous trip. The scenery was breathtaking, we spotted seven moose, several pheasants, other birds, and even three caribou. The relief of finally having asphalt under our tires again was immense, but then again, we came to Canada precisely for adventures like this.
In search of the icebergs
We continued our journey in the campervan back to civilization and finally joined the TCH East at Badger. The highway didn't accompany us for long, however, as we followed Route 341/0 towards Twillingate . The islands of Notre Dame Bay enchanted us; behind every bend, every hill, lay a new, incredible view of a thousand small and large islands in the Arctic Ocean. Framed by rocks, covered with slender pines, and completely uninhabited. We set off for Iceberg Alley , the current that carries calved icebergs from the Arctic before the 10,000-year-old ice melts forever into the sea. Apparently, a large iceberg was currently lying off Merritt Harbour. Driven by our sense of adventure, we drove through a small village, over a hill to the small fishing harbor, and there we saw a small iceberg floating in the sea. This sight fascinated us, and we were quite excited. But on closer inspection, the real highlight revealed itself: an iceberg as big as five single-family homes. Like a gigantic ship, it lay at the end of the small harbor, gleaming in the most beautiful shades of light blue and mint. Euphoric and awestruck at the same time, we stood with our mouths open before the colossus for almost three hours.
Still exhilarated from this experience, we drove our campervan to the town of Twillingate, a charming harbor town with old, colorful wooden houses, small museums, and art galleries. We stayed right by the pier and the next day explored the area, which boasted a stunning lighthouse and various hiking trails along the surrounding cliffs. We were particularly taken with French Beach and Spillar's Cove . We kept catching glimpses of the iceberg we'd seen the day before in the distance.
The Terra Nova National Park
We continued towards Gander and from there onto the Trans-Channel Highway (TCH) to Terra Nova National Park . Our first stop in any national park is usually the Visitor Centre, as they often offer a charming explanation of the park's history and unique features, presented with lots of interactive exhibits, especially for children. You can also pick up a map of the park showing hiking trails and campsites, since camping is only permitted in designated areas. The Terra Nova Visitor Centre delighted our little ones with an exhibit about the animals that live there. The park featured exhibits on living and a large-scale documentary about the starry sky and light pollution. In a touch pool filled with seawater, visitors could feel the seabed and explore many questions: What do an anemone or a starfish feel like? Do crabs actually pinch? And what's the deal with all that seaweed?
Camping life in the national park
After that, we spent two days at a larger campground with a washing machine. We use these stops once a week for a big clean, and the kids clearly enjoy the extended time in one place. As soon as we arrived, the camping blanket was laid out in front of the van, covered with all sorts of toys. The picnic table, which is available at every campsite along with a grill or fire pit, was set up with the kids' water bottles and snacks from our lunchboxes , and they played for hours. Meanwhile, Franzi embarked on a mission to do laundry, the first time in three weeks.
Most of the hiking trails through the parks start at the campsites. This allowed us to immerse ourselves in the wild nature of the national park on our morning walk with the dog, while saving the longer hike for the rest of the day. After two wonderfully relaxing days, Terra Nova National Park bid us farewell, and we drove straight to Newfoundland's capital: St. John's .
City Life in Newfoundland: St. John's
St. John's is not only the largest city in Newfoundland, but it's also located in the far east of the island and for many years was only accessible by train, boat, or plane. We love exploring a new city, so it was a must to set off on foot the evening of our arrival, despite the pouring rain. With two children, a dog, and a perceived temperature of one degree Celsius, it wasn't exactly pleasant. Nevertheless, we were curious, and in retrospect, we wouldn't have missed it for the world, as the atmosphere was exciting and we were able to get a good overview of the city. The next day, the rain clouds had not only moved on, but it was practically summer in the city, and we discovered a wonderfully vibrant, colorful, and truly enchanting metropolis/small town, as St. John's is home to half of all Newfoundlanders. We explored Water Street, the many small side streets and dark alleys and staircases dating back to the time of the pirates, discovered a part of the province's history at " The Rooms " Museum, and enjoyed the sunset on Signal Hill . Shortly after dusk, another surprise awaited us: Very tame foxes from the surrounding cliffs came here, aware of the trash left behind by the tourists who arrive daily. A spectacle for young and old alike.
Looking for puffins
Just half an hour from St. John's lies a protected seabird sanctuary in Witless Bay , and excursion boats depart from Bay Bulls. Various operators also offer tours from neighboring communities. Following the roads of the Avalon Peninsula, you'll find numerous fantastic viewpoints perfect for observing a variety of birds. However, we were searching for a very specific species, something we'd been hoping for ever since our trip to Norway: puffins. These cute little birds, with their colorful beaks so out of place in the cold north, nest here in Witless Bay, but since neither the weather nor the visibility was good, we decided to head directly to another colony on the Bonavista Peninsula.
Bonavista is known for its beautiful old fishing villages, but it's also located on Iceberg Alley , where the large, white giants swim past. Our mission was clear: we wanted to go to Ellison, because a puffin colony nests right off the coast there, and unlike Witless Bay, you can observe the adorable birds on foot. The colorful activity on the offshore rocks is like a major event, with so many birds in such a small space vying for the best nesting spots, returning from feeding, or squabbling over the most beautiful female.
Unfortunately, the weather didn't live up to the peninsula's name at all and barely allowed a view of the coast. So, after a brief stop at the Ryan Premises National Historic Site , which vividly illustrates the development of the fishing industry, we decided to head directly to Gros Morne National Park .
Traveling by campervan in Gros Morne National Park
Gros Morne is a national park that encompasses several distinct vegetation zones. There are fjord-like lakes that cut deep into the mountains, vast tundra where caribou roam, and lush forests interwoven with mosses and ferns. Steep and gentle coastlines feature miles of sandy and pebbly beaches, and of course, the Tabellands, a massive plateau composed of rock from the Earth's interior, resembling a piece of Mars—inhospitable and bronze-red. We opted to stay two nights at the Berry Hill Campground , from which a wonderfully short walking trail leads around Berry Hill Pond , easily manageable even with children. A longer trail to waterfalls and a short climb up Berry Hill are also conveniently accessible directly from the campground. For those not traveling by campervan or who prefer more comfort than a tent, there are also lovely little cabins with lake views available for rent.
A well-maintained but short path leads to the boat dock at Western Brook Bay , one of the park's highlights, where boat tours into the fjord depart. The path is easily accessible with strollers, wheelchairs, or bicycles. Our route took us from the northernmost point of the park, Shallow Bay, back to the southern side of the park to Woody Point. This small fishing village caters to national park tourists, offering not only shops for everyday needs but also charming cafes and art galleries. The water taxi to Norris Point also departs from here, connecting the two sides of the national park. Just above Woody Point is the park's Discovery Center , which is highly recommended. It vividly explains the structure of our planet and the movement of the tectonic plates, which ultimately led to the formation of the park, especially the Tablelands. Visitors can admire different types of rock and discover fossils. The center also features an exhibit about the First Nations people who once lived in the park area.
A campervan trip through Newfoundland: our conclusion
After 18 days in Newfoundland, we said goodbye to this breathtaking island, its northern flora and fauna, its people shaped by the winds, and its wave-lashed coasts. Newfoundland was definitely a very special highlight right at the beginning of our North American adventure. For anyone who also wants to experience this wild nature, we recommend either coming by campervan from the mainland or flying directly to St. John's and exploring the island with a rental car. The best accommodation options are cabins at national park campgrounds, small cottages, or tents, as many beautifully situated campgrounds are designed for tents only and are accessible only on foot.
Off to an adventure in Newfoundland.
